The Northern Loop

Saturday, July 15, 2017

We are covering a lot of ground today. We are going to do the 70 mile Northern loop of the park. We started at Norris Geyser Basin because Sarah told us to look out for the Kalmia microphylla. We were able to find it in two places!  There were also some great thermal geysers in this Basin.

We moved on to The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and stopped for lunch in Canyon Village. We started the drive up to Tower Roosevelt when something pink caught my eye (go figure). It was Mimulus lewisii and it is adorable!  I do believe I need this!

We raised to an elevation of 8667+ feet and pulled off to see the change in flora. Many of the species were similar to what we have already at this elevation in Teton but we haven't talked about them yet so thought I would include them todya.  We saw Allium textile, Castilleja occidentalis, Sedum lanceolatum, and Geum triflorum.

Further down the road we noticed a valley and pulled over to try to see if any new species were there. We finally found Julia's Lupinus polyphyllus! She was so excited she was jumping up and down!   We also saw Bistorta bistortoides.

Two pull outs later we stopped by a stream and found Igor’s Betula glandulifera. With arms flailing and a large smile he ran back to grab his camera! It was a cute little shrubby thing that would be nice in our collection.

Of course we stopped at the petrified tree just past Tower Roosevelt where we ran into a rather large stand of Linaria dalmatica.  While we know it's invasive here, you can't help but appreciate its beauty (the reason it has been introduced in the first place).

Our last stop of the day was Mammoth Hot Springs. Some very interesting thermal features but other than some new Juniper species we mostly found exotics.  It was getting late and we still had to drive an hour and a half to get back to the house so we headed home to prepare for our hike with Heidi tomorrow.

Day 4: Geysers and Bogs

Friday, July 14, 2017

Upon entering the gate this morning we were informed that the trail we had planned to take today was closed. We only had a few hours before we needed to meet Sarah so we improvised.  Today we are going to focus our efforts on seeing the flora the Southwestern portion of the park and site seeing along the way.

The first section we came to was Fountain Flat Drive. A beautiful stream with a fumarol near the river. Here we found Eleocharis palustris a sedge that was eaten by some native peoples. We also saw a very cool pink thistle, Cirsium drummondii.

In the Fountain Paint Pots area I was fascinated by the ‘Bobby Sock’ trees. Named after the 1940’s white sock fashion they are very cool mummified in the thermal areas. Since Oleg has gotten quite sunburned while he has been here he has we have dubbed him Squatting Bobby socks for the day.  There were no new species in this area, but we did see probably 10 of the parks invasive species in this one location.

Of course we couldn't go by with stopping at Grand Prismatic Spring.

After two previously failed attempts on family vacation to see this area, I was a little bit excited that I could actually see it this time!

Sisyrinchium montanum

Next we decided to go see the Old Faithful geyser basin area. We were running out of time but did a quick tour of the Upper Geyser Basin before we had to leave to meet Sarah. One of my favorites was Sisyrinchium montanum.  Native peoples used the root to make into a tea to help with stomach troubles and expel intestinal worms. Isn't she a butte!?!? Gentiana species we couldn't get close enough to key exact.

Now on to our favorite part of the day! We met Sarah, the parks seasonal Biological Science Technician, who works on wetland restoration and delineation. She gifted us with a field guide to the rare plants within Yellowstone which was so invaluable to us. Thank you Sarah!!!!

Starting near Old Faithful we followed her to a wetland site that was full of so many interesting species!  Seriously, it was half of the rare species book!!!

I'm going to let the pictures speak for themselves but we saw:  Antennaera flagellaris, Carex cusickii, Erigonum umbellatum var. cladophorum, Drosera anglica, Juncus filiformis, Mulenbergia glomerata, Orobanche corymbosa var corymbosa, Mimulus moschatus, Equisetum laevigatum, and Spiranthes romanzoffiana just to name a few.

We went on the hunt for Botrychium simplex, called the key plant in Russia, but were unsuccessful. (Found out later it isn't in this area).  It is said that whenever you find this plant there will be treasure underneath! Alas, we will not be retiring as we have no treasure today.

This area was so large you could've spent all day here!  My favorite part was watching the species change as you moved through the wetland.

We also went to another site nearby were we saw Ross’s Bentgrass (Agrostis rossiae var. rossiae) growing in the fumaroles.  It was a bit past peak, but still very cool. We were soaked, muddy, mosquito bitten, and my allergies flared up, but we had an awesome time!!!

Day 3: Propagation Fields and Hidden Falls

Thursday, July 13, 2017

**We are having technical difficulties posting photos because of lack of Wi-fi, so we will upload those as soon as possible.

Today is our last day in Grand Teton National Park so we had to wake up early to pack the vehicle for our afternoon drive to Yellowstone. Six people, 6 luggage, 6 backpacks, 1 cooler, and some food later and our clown car was ready to go!!

Clown Car!

We left early today and we were able to stop for THE touristy photo since there was no line. Then we were off to meet Kelly McCloskey, Grand Teton’s Ecologist.  

Julia's research is on invasive species so she explained to us the reasons as to why they exist in the park. Over the years homesteading and dude ranches had created the need for animal grazing, this in turn brought and spread many species in the valley that have started to creep elsewhere. She also talked about a few restoration projects they are working on, a new sewer line being one of them. 

Next we went to their propagation fields to see the plots where they collect seed. This is a newer operation for them and although it's early stages, with a few challenges, is proving successful. Bromus inermis and Leucanthemum vulgare (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum*).  We also discovered that fire is not really an option for them as an invasive control because of the short window of opportunity. 

In the field plots we were able to see Helianthella sp., Poa secunda, Elymus trachycaulus, and Carex hoodii.  The Elymus will be able to be harvested this year. As an added bonus, we got to go to an old dude ranch near Snake River that is being restored and used for staff housing. 

Carex hoodii

We then got to visit their shade houses. Needless to say Derek was in hog heaven. Peaonia brownii (Brown's Peony) that was saved from a construction project. There were also some pines growing Pinus contorta and Pinus albicaulis. The white pine beetle is devastating a few sections in the park and they are working to restore those areas. 

For a structure that was only meant to be temporary it was pristine! Like us, they have a great group of volunteers who help them out. Many of the plants that are in the houses are awaiting their homes on restoration sites so that was neat to see. The most interesting of the species being the

After a wonderful tour and so much information (thank you again!) we said goodbye to Kelly and went to explore a bit more before our drive North. 

We only had a few hours left so we chose to hike to Hidden Falls. We thought we were hiking a quick, flat hike around Jenny Lake, but somehow took a turn and ended up on the trail to Hidden Falls. It's not that this is a strenuous hike, but after a couple of days of hiking already, the group was a bit tired. We were nervous we wouldn't see anything new, however, we hit the jackpot on some sun ferns and another shade one down the way. We also saw a new Rhododendron species today which made Igor very happy. 

Running out of time we thought it best to take the shuttle boat back to the parking area.  

Two hours later we reached Yellowstone. One of the first things we came across was a patch of Nufar luteum polysepala lilies, and Derek geeked out. The water was so clear you could see their bases! We also ran across Ledum glandulosum (Rhododendron columbianum*). 

Nufar luteum polysepala

Finally, I had to mention that in the back yard of where we are staying we also have Calchortus nuttalii growing in the backyard!

Calchortus nuttalii

*Some of our field guides are dated and we need to check the accepted names of some of these plants.

Day 2: Coby Peak Trails

Day 2: Grand Teton National Park

Today, everyone was up early and anxious to get out the door. Despite a long but enjoyable hike the day before, today's hike was not for the novice hiker. Jet lag and all, we pushed onward. Jen and Derek planned a day at the top of Coby Peak in the Grand Teton Mountain Range. 

To get to the summit, we cheated. We rode the Aerial Tram at Teton Village up to 10,450 ft. above sea level. We snooped around the summit and found many alpine plants that are endemic to North America (too many photos to share, WiFi here is spotty). We trekked back down the mountain via Aerial Tram and took the Gondola up to another peak. From there, we hiked to the base of the mountain. During our 8 mile hike down, we witnessed how the vegetation changes as you descend. For us and any plant nerd out there, it was a day to remember.

Looking ahead, we will spend the majority of tomorrow with a field botanist in Grand Teton National Park. From there, we journey to Yellowstone National Park. Unfortunately, we have no internet access at our housing. The blog will be put on hold for 4 nights. No worries, we'll catch everyone back up once we regain WiFi in Glacier National Park. 

Top Row: Igor and Oleg
Bottom Row: Julia, Jen (Please ignore her Donald Trump hairdo)
Not Pictured: Derek (He's too busy taking awesome photos)

Jen with Delphinum glaucum. 

59 degrees Fahrenheit at the summit. We'll take it!

Derek botanizing.

Will do!

Aquilegia caerulea

Lithophragma parviflorum

Erigonum ovalifolium

Rudbeckia occidentalis

Derek hates photos.

Bradley and Taggart Lakes

I am happy to report that we have all arrived safely!  I have to say, there's nothing like a brand new car with shiny buttons to make you feel old in life.  I am not kidding when I say it took us 15 minutes to figure out how to turn on the lights to our van!  Everything is automated, you don't even need a key to start this puppy...there are so many buttons Derek has shut himself in the car door twice because we don't know how to shut them manually.

Anywho, back to the reason we are here.  We picked up out colleagues at 9 pm last night.  After 3 plane changes they were very happy to arrive and get some much needed rest.  Arriving at night they did not get a chance to see much of the city and the beautiful mountain range all around us.  Igor has said his favorite surprise was waking up to the beauty in our backyard.

We had a wonderful first day of hiking around the Taggart-Bradley Lake Loop.  It was a beautiful hike that takes you through meadows and some forested areas that offer some great vistas.   We saw so many species today, too many to post, so here are some of my favorites that were on my phone:

Embarking on our journey

Beautiful scenery along the way

Julia, Igor and Oksana botanizing

Agastache urticifolia

Always important to make new friends

Ipomopsis aggregata

Linaria vulgaris

Spiraea splendens

The traffic lines to get back into Jackson are very long each evening so we thought it was only fitting to play one of our favorite songs:

 Once you have listened to Johnny, there is only one place to go - The Cowboy Bar, for the real western experience! After some good country music and buffalo burgers, I think we have converted Oleg to a true western cowboy!

Trip Planning and Introductions

Greetings!!

We have finalized our plans and are looking forward to our upcoming trip. To give you a chance to get to know who will be in all of the photos, the quick introductions:
Hosting the trip are:

• Derek Lyle (Senior Manager, Nursery) 
• Jen Smock (Supervisor, Kemper Center for Home Gardening).

Joining us from Russia are:

• Julia Vinogradova (Chief Research Scientist) from Main Botanical Garden
• Oksana Gontar (Deputy Director of Science) from N.A. Avrorin Polar-Alpine Botanical Garden
• Igor Yatsenko (Research Scientist specializing in Dendrology) from Main Botanical Garden
• Oleg Smirnov (Project Manager) from Main Botanical Garden.

This is a very majestic part of the country and we anticipate spotting numerous endemic species. We will also get the chance to visit a restoration nursery and see their conservation work first hand.

A special thanks to the following colleagues for helping us plan this trip as well as hosting us for a few hikes while we are there.

Grand Teton National Park: Kelly Mccloskey
Yellowstone National Park: Sara Smith and Heidi Anderson
Glacier National Park: Dawn Lafleur, Sonja Hartmann, Jennifer Hintz, and Jennifer Asebrook

Stay tuned for some great hikes and awesome plant photos!!